The Tunis medina is a maze of alleyways, souks (markets) and central arteries, continuously lived in since the 8th century CE. Travelers can easily remain on the crowded main axis between the eastern entrance at Bab al Bhar (Porte de France) and the western entrance at the Kasbah, but we enjoy wandering down the narrow streets to explore the nooks and crannies of the medina.
The Tunisian stroll, or doolesha, is a beloved tradition that often leads to unexpected-yet-delightful experiences, such as encountering a gaggle of school children, turning a corner onto a beautiful square, sneaking a peek inside a private home, or drinking mint tea with locals.
To get you started, we’ve compiled a short list of our favorite places to eat, sleep and shop, a tiny sliver of the medina to kickstart your doolesha. We always seek places that are locally-owned, so that all transactions are contributing to the livelihood of the community and neighborhood.
Whenever we visit the medina, we book a personalized tour with Mdinti, a platform launched by local artisans and businesses aiming to connect travelers and Tunisians with the history, heritage, and craftsmanship of the medina of Tunis. Arrange walking tours by theme, explore food options, and visit artisans’ workshops. Their tours and experiences feel like a friend taking you around the neighborhood. They create engaging programs for Tunisians and visitors to connect with the medina in new ways, such as treasure hunts and cooking classes for kids, ceramic workshops, and more. Contact us here, and we’ll connect you with Salma at Mdinti.
Image credit: https://www.instagram.com/darslah/
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EAT
Dar Slah
145, Rue de la Kasbah
+216 71 26 10 26
contact@darslah.com
12noon – 3:30 PM; closed Sundays
Not far from Zitouna Mosque is Dar Slah, a lunchtime favorite of Hella of Flaÿou and Leila of Blue Fish. Here you’ll eat traditional Tunisian cuisine in a building that dates back more than four centuries.
“One thing every visitor to Tunisia should experience is Tunisian cuisine! Our favorite spot is Dar Slah on rue de la Kasbah in the Tunis. We love their couscous with osbane (sausage) and their couscous with squid ink. Following lunch, walk to Avenue Bourguiba to Hana International Hotel and grab a beer on the rooftop café for 360° views of Tunis.” -Flaÿou founder, Hella.
Fondouk el Attarine
9 bis, Souk el Attarine
10 AM – 6 PM; closed Sundays
Whether walking from the Kasbah or Bab al Bhar (Porte de France), you’ll want to find your way to Fondouk el Attarine, a stone’s throw from Zitouna Mosque in the souk El Attarine, or souk of perfumers. Formerly a caravanserai, this lunchtime restaurant offers local dishes in a covered courtyard. You may run into designer Anissa Aida grabbing a bite after meeting with shoe and balgha maker, Souheil Fitouri of Les Trois Chameaux. Added plus: browse their boutique for handmade artisan products, such as handcrafted jewelry, babouches, pottery and more.
Dar el Jeld
5, Rue Dar el Jeld
12:30 – 7 PM; closed Sundays
For a more refined dining experience, Dar el Jeld is a favorite among locals and visitors. The restaurant is located in a luxurious home down the street from the Kasbah, which is at the highest part of the medina where prominent individuals lived. The flavorful traditional Tunisian cuisine matches the sumptuous interiors—walls covered in faience ceramics and chandeliers dangling from exquisite stucco ceilings. Adjacent to the restaurant is the hotel Dar el Jeld, known for its rooftop terraces, hotel rooms and spa.
Two other restaurants serving traditional cuisine in refined interiors in the medina are restaurants Dar Bel Hadj and Centre Essaraya.
Doken
36, Rue des Librairies
9 AM – 5 PM everyday
“Slow Fast Food” is the motto at Doken, a new spot in the medina very close to Zitouna Mosque, across from the 18th century Ottoman-era Madrasa Slimania and adjacent to the 400-year old, men-only Kachachine Hammam. When you roll out of lunch, admire the former madrasa’s raised entryway before wandering through the souks. Nearby is Dar Bach Hamba, a former palace in the medina that you can visit.
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SLEEP
Dar ben Gacem
Dar Ben Gacem-Pacha 38, Rue du Pacha
Dar Ben Gacem-Kahia 16, Rue el Kahia (off of Rue du Pacha)
If arriving by car at either location, enter the medina at Rue du Pacha from Rue Bab Souika
Bluefish founder Leila ben Gacem bought a 17th century medina home in 2006 with the aim of preserving and revitalizing Tunisia’s heritage. Located between the Kasbah and the northern neighborhood of Bab Souika, the first house was previously owned by a family of perfumers that lived there for 300 years. Leila worked with local artisans, architects, and the Associations de Sauvegarde de la Medina to restore and update the building with modern amenities.
A reading nook overlooking the courtyard of Dar ben Gacem
In 2019, Leila opened a second location, Dar Ben Gacem-Kahia, at 16 rue el Kahia. Leila and her dedicated team make you feel at home at both locations. Take breakfast in the sun-filled courtyard, on the rooftop overlooking the medina, or in your room. My favorite spot? The rooftop, where I can listen to the sounds of the medina. Your stay here is more than a beautiful experience. It has a positive impact on the local community.
Dar el Medina
64, Rue Sidi Ben Arous
This 12-room boutique hotel is a five-minute walk from the Kasbah. Set in a former home built in 1820, you’ll enjoy traditional décor with stylish modern amenities. Enjoy the panoramic views of the city from the rooftop, or grab a spot in the charming courtyard.
Palais Bayram
6, Rue des Andalous
This 16-room hotel was the last residence of the Grand Ottoman Muftis. Located between Zitouna Mosque and Tourbet el Bey neighborhood to the south, this luxurious 18th century palace seduced Fathi Bouzouita, who bought and diligently restored the building to its original grandeur. Jean-Pierre Guinhut, a former French ambassador, was also enchanted and helped launch the project. Relax in the hammam and spa, before a meal at its restaurant, Le Makhzen.
Dar el Jeld Rooftop in the medina of Tunis (Image credit: Dar el Jeld)
Dar el Jeld Hotel & Spa
5 – 10 Rue Dar El Jeld
The glossiest of all of the hotels in the medina is Dar el Jeld and its newly constructed 16 suites. Situated around the corner from the Kasbah, it offers two restaurants, a spa, rooftop terrace and shop.
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SHOP
Fondouk el Attarine
9 bis, Souk el Attarine
10 AM – 6 PM; closed Sundays
After enjoying an afternoon meal at their restaurant, visit the boutique for locally-made Tunisian designs. They carry loom-woven silk scarves, leather babouches, eye-catching jewelry, and more. Maybe of these items are made by artisans in the medina, so your shopping is supporting local craftsmanship.
Ed-Dar
8, rue Sidi ben Arous
9 AM – 6:30 PM, Monday-Friday
9 AM -7 PM, Saturday
Closed Sundays
Ed-Dar is a treasure trove of antiques and objects housed in a 15th century home. Part museum, part shop, all pieces found in this building are hand chosen by the owner, Ali Chammakhi, who is passionate about antiques, history and Tunisia’s cultural heritage. The building is five stories high and the only home attached to the historic Zitouna Mosque. Walk through the different rooms and you’ll experience rich interiors, historic pieces part of the owner’s personal collections that are not for sale, and objects that are steeped in history and craftsmanship.
Librairie Diwan in the medina of Tunis (Image credit: Mdinti)
Diwan Bookstore
9, rue Sidi Ben Arous
10 AM – 6 PM, Monday-Saturday; CLosed Sundays
Across the street from Ed-Dar is Librairie Diwan, a bookstore that carries books, postcards and catalogs that will transport you back to Tunis through words and pictures once you return home.
Roumouz Pottery
Location 1: Dar el Bey, 04 Souk el Bey, Rue de la Kasbah, near the Kasbah
Location 2: 45 bis Rue Jamaa Ez Zitouna, on the main thoroughfare, a few steps from Zitouna Mosque
Roumouz offers handmade and handprinted ceramic pieces by female designer Wissem. After graduating from Tunisia’s School of Fine Arts, she trained alongside the famed ceramicists of Nabeul, Tunisia’s center for ceramics. She works closely with her loyal tam of artisans in her atelier to create new designs and styles not seen at the other ceramics shops in the medina.
View north from the rooftop of Dar ben Gacem