Paris-based Alexia Tronel and Marseille-based Caroline Perdrix co-founded the non-profit association Itinérance Méditerranée, a project that collaborates with artisan communities across the Mediterranean in conjunction with their clothing brand Bartavelle. In summer 2019, they exhibited a collection they developed in collaboration with female embroiderers from the small Tunisian town of Guermessa in the south at l’Institut Français de Tunisie in Tunis.
What is Itinérance Méditerranée?
Alexia: Itinérance Méditerranée is a project done in parallel to our brand and creative studio Atelier Bartavelle to deepen our involvement with communities. The project co-creates positive initiatives in the Mediterranean world. Our mission is to bring together a community of artisans and changemakers working in textile in the region. We integrate domestic art into the production of each collection.
Caroline: We develop limited edition clothing in collaboration with locals. It’s an entirely local project that looks into into the fashion industry and sheds a light on each participant in the process of creating and producing clothing. We then put our partners in touch with brands that want to develop a new production approach. We work with women, and social-impact is at the heart of our project.
Why Tunisia?
Alexia: Tunisia was a logical step for our project. For years, various European brands have worked with Tunisian garment workshops to create pieces for their collections. We wanted to show that there is exceptional savoir-faire and craftsmanship beyond these garment workshops.
Caroline: I had read the poem of Mohamed Sghaïer Ouled Ahmed titled “Les Femmes de mon pays” (“The Women of my country”), written during the revolution in 2010. This poem became a symbol for the women campaigning for their rights. The feminist hymn was sung at each march. This poem moved me and it’s at this point that our project in Tunisia launched. We decided that the poems would be embroidered on the shirts made by the embroiderers of Guermessa.
Exhibition view at Institut francais de Tunisie.
Who do you work with in Tunisia?
Alexia: In Tunisia we work with female embroiderers (domestic art) from a small village in the south, Guermessa. The project provides additional income and autonomy for them. It’s an introduction to professional life, while remaining in harmony with their way of life, their social structures and their family obligations.
Caroline: I spent several weeks with the embroiderers to develop a series of shirts. We worked with the poem of Mohamed Sghaïer Ouled Ahmed and created a pattern using Arabic calligraphy. The letters are embroidered in large scale on the shirts. We collaborated with Ali Almasri, a Jordanian calligrapher based in Tunis, who explores new visual languages with a particular focus on Arabic letters. Most of the pieces are made by seamstresses from Tunis, and are 100% cotton from the remains of stock material from the souk in the medina of Tunis. Part of the collection was developed within the Bartavelle studio. The rest of the pieces are taekwondo kimonos found in the thrift stores of Tunis. These upcycled pieces echo the key role of Tunisia as a hub for second-hand clothes.
Photographs of the embroiderers of Guermessa at the exhibition
What are you most proud of with this project?
Caroline: In developing this project, it took a lot of time to really meet people. To build real relationships. I am proud to know these women and forge these relationships.
Each clothing tag had the poem of Mohamed Sghaïer Ouled Ahmed titled “Les Femmes de mon pays” written out
What unexpected discoveries did you make while working in Tunisia?
Alexia: There was this one day where we spent at the top of an ancient Troglodyte village of Guermessa. We sang and danced with the women while preparing couscous over a wood fire.
Caroline: The berber traditions, everyday life of the village, the sisterhood among women we find stronger in societies dominated by men.
Who is a Tunisian you admire?
Alexia: Leila ben Gacem. She is a social entrepreneur. I admire her initiatives.
Caroline: Marouane Sbidi, a designer and entrepreneur I met in Tunis. He is also passionate about crafts and leads many cultural and creative projects.
What is your favorite place to visit in Tunisia?
Caroline: I enjoy Tunis for the opening of the exhibition, and the south for its hospitality.
Homemade Makroud pastries made in September 2010 in NYC by Pauline Eveillard and her friend Rodney Collins (both Fulbrighters who met in Tunisia)
What is one Tunisian dish you crave?
Caroline: Garn ghzel, or “horns of gazelle” from Tataouine. These are filled with crushed almonds with cinnamon and orange blossom water in the shape of a horn.
Alexia: Makroud pastries from Tunis. These are semolina and flour pastries filled with dates.
What is one thing every visitor to Tunisia should experience?
Caroline: It is so difficult to choose just one. I recommend taking your time to visit the country and really meet the people who live here!
What do you wish the world knew about Tunisia?
Alexia: The hospitality and generosity.
Caroline: Tunisia is full of incredible crafts!
Translated from French into English by Pauline Eveillard.
March 2020. All photos taken by Pauline Eveillard.